While there may be some value in using flytraps outside a facility (perhaps against a particular species in a special situation); it is extremely rare, and we would never recommend it without a specific, provable objective in mind.

There is a danger of killing beneficial species. Exterior flying insect problems should be, first and foremost, attacked with integrated pest management techniques other than flytraps; such as improved sanitation, the strategic choice and placement of  lighting, physical exclusion, and indoor use of professional flytraps.

Area Coverage?

File any published "area covered" claims in your wastebasket. At best, they are, generalized, rules of thumb. At worst, they are misleading advertising. They certainly shouldn't be used to compare traps.

It is nonsense to say any flytrap will control insects within "X" square feet of space (even indoors) without, at least, specifying the species of insects concerned, the type and condition of the facility, the surrounding environment, and management's level of concern. The distance at which an insect responds is determined by lamp type and trap design, of course, but also by the number, visual acuity, and nature of the specific insect.

Visual Acuity

Generally speaking, most insects do not respond to light traps more than a hundred feet away. Houseflies appear to respond at about 20 to 25 feet with a significant increase at about 12 feet**, but just as important is the nature of the response.

Nature Of The Fly

Many flies will respond immediately to a flytrap, most do not. In our lab tests with 100 houseflies, pro flytraps sometimes catch 20 to 30% in the first five minutes, 50 to 60% in 15 minutes, and 100% in less than two hours. On average, however, they have caught 92% in seven hours, 98% in 24 hours, and 99% in 36 hours. Quite often, a fly or two will be completely unresponsive for two or even three days; then suddenly, it's caught. All appear to respond, eventually, but in their own time.

Houseflies appear to go through periods when they are simply more interested in resting, buzzing around searching for food or water, or frolicking with a playmate than responding to light (and vice-versa). This periodic-response-to-light combined with a strong flying ability make the housefly one tough insect to control. Their filth and germ dispersal makes it imperative.

Designing A Professional Flytrap System

We discovered, long ago, that a system designed well enough to handle houseflies is a good, basic overall system that functions well against a wide range of species. The benefits of such a system are plural and exceptions can be handled with minor strategic adjustments.

Spacing Traps

Regardless of the number of traps used, they should be spread out evenly throughout a facility. So, when an insect does enter a responsive period there will be a trap, nearby, to take care of it (preferably within visual range). From practical experience we know that spacing traps about 40 feet apart is a good rule of thumb. However, due to differing trap designs, control requirements, and existing conditions, the optimum number and distance between traps will vary from facility to facility and from room to room.

Spread the first flytraps along the most critical insect pathways, one which leads from a dumpster to a food production area, for example. Good spots for flytraps along these pathways are at entrances, doorways, and other "bottlenecks", especially in vestibules.

If there are no vestibules or good bottlenecks between refuse areas and, production areas; then at least one should be constructed. Flytraps are most effective where insects are routinely detained and given more time to respond.

Mount Traps Down Low

If you want to control flies, install traps down low (below 5 feet). Research shows that a light trap placed waist high or lower is significantly more effective than one placed above 5 feet. There are exceptions, in rooms with unusual temperature stratifications, etc. However, though many flying insects (especially night-fliers) respond better at higher heights in buildings; generally, they come down to traps much better than day-fliers go up to traps. Flytraps are also easier to monitor and maintain when they are waist high (no ladder needed).

There Are Exceptions To The Rule

Wall sconce flytraps are useful in hospital hallways, restaurants, fine dining establishments, or other public areas where using an industrial trap design might clash with the decor.

Ceiling-hung traps may be needed in areas where the invading insects cannot be controlled with strategic lighting, exclusion, and low, wall mounted traps, where there is simply no space to mount a trap down low, not even a corner where a 601T could be placed.

Monitoring of stored product insects is best accomplished at higher heights ?

Exploding Myths

Sincere consideration should be given to the relatively few richochet insects and microparticles that occasionally fall from flytraps (strong emphasis on "sincere"). Beware of exaggerated, "Chicken Little", "sky is falling!", adverting gimmicks and the questionable research claimed to support it. Sincere critical thinking is overdue on the "exploding" issue.

Existing Lighting

Flytraps must compete with other light sources for an insects attention. Standard incandescent and fluorescent lighting have little or no effect on pro flytrap performance, as long as it is not placed where it draws additional insects into the facility. However, mercury vapor lamps emit enough UV to reduce the effectiveness of light traps. The use of sodium vapor and lower wattage lighting will increase light trap effectiveness.

A List Of Don'ts

• Do not use ceiling-hung flytraps in food processing areas. Use only low, wall mounted, professional flytraps at low height. And, keep them at least 5ft. (FDA Interpretation) away from open product. Where reasonable, considering all factors, including overall effectiveness, a 10, 20, or perhaps even 30 ft. distance may not be a bad idea. Though our traps are escape-resistant (designed to retain the insect within the device); lightweight insect fragments can, on occasion, bounce or be blown out of any flytrap (including glueboards, especially when servicing boards that may have dried out). However, try not let "Chicken Little" freak you out.
• Do not use light traps where their attractant light shines directly out glass doors or doors to be open after dusk. Outside insects can be attracted in.
• Do not forget ADA Guidelines when installing flytraps.
• Do not use any electric flytraps in explosion sensitive areas. See the National Electric Code.
  Remember that UV from flytraps can color-fade wall paper, carpet, fabrics, etc.
• Do not place flytraps in direct sunlight. Sunlight contains all the wavelengths of energy that both humans and insects see as light, including the wavelengths that attract insects to flytraps. This does not mean that the darkest spot in the room is always the best place for a light trap.
• Do not place UV light traps of any kind so that employees are required to work continuously in close eye level proximity (i.e. over a sink or table where an employee would be stationed continuously within one meter).
• Do not overestimate the ability of light meters; especially, cheap, little ones. If properly used (and that's the crux of the matter); they can distinguish an old lamp from a new one, but "if" and only "if" comparing the exact same brand and model of lamp. METERS ARE NOT FLIES! They cannot evaluate trap designs, the comparative effectiveness of different lamps, or shatter-proof coatings. Only good, honest research with insects can do that. Seen any?
• Study www.gilbertinc.com

Learn as much as you can about the nature and habits of flying insects. Be aware of the effect odor, temperature, wind and light have on them. Use all preventative procedures to keep the number of flying insects in your facility to a minimum. Pro flytraps are one tool!